Peshawari Specialty of Paye Is Not To Be Missed

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Peshawar: As evening approaches during Ramazan, crowds gather outside traditional eateries in Peshawar, drawn by a dish that has survived generations of changing food trends, the city’s famous paye.

Made from cow or buffalo trotters slowly cooked with spices in large earthen cauldrons, Peshawari paye has become particularly sought-after during the holy month, when fasting residents look forward to enjoying the rich traditional dish after sunset.

For Mujeeb, a middle-aged resident navigating a crowded eatery in the Ghanj area, securing a bowl of paye is worth the effort.

“Food lovers have a special liking for paye, also known as panchey in Hindko, but during Ramazan the craving becomes irresistible,” he said.

The dish is deeply connected to Peshawar’s culinary heritage, with several businesses continuing recipes and cooking techniques passed down through generations.

Habib, a paye seller in Yakatoot, said his family has been preparing the dish for more than a century. He is the third generation to run the business established by his grandfather in 1920.

“We have been cooking paye every day for the last century. It has become our trademark and is loved by our customers,” he said.

Although many households prepare trotters at home, Habib said customers often prefer commercially prepared paye because of its distinctive taste, which he attributed to traditional cooking methods and large-scale preparation.

The demand changes significantly during Ramazan. While paye is normally served as a breakfast dish, shops begin selling it from afternoon through iftar during the fasting month.

For many Peshawar residents, the dish is also associated with family gatherings and celebrations.

Octogenarian resident Saeed Ahmad said trotters remain a popular choice when relatives and friends gather for meals. Although he has been advised to avoid oily food because of health concerns, he admitted that he finds it difficult to resist when invited to a paye meal.

Peshawar is home to more than 25 specialised paye outlets, according to local sellers. Yaseen, another third-generation paye maker, said the secret lies in patience rather than a complicated recipe.

Preparing the dish can take between 10 and 12 hours. The trotters are first cleaned and boiled, then placed in large earthen cauldrons and cooked overnight on a low flame.

The basic ingredients include turmeric, salt, red and black pepper, cumin and cooking oil. Sellers say slow cooking and preparing large quantities together give Peshawari paye its characteristic flavour.

Yaseen said his shop normally cooks around 15 to 20 trotters a day, but the figure rises to 25 to 35 during Ramazan. A bowl currently costs around Rs350, although rising gas bills, rents and cooking oil prices have pushed up production costs.

The dish’s popularity, however, comes with health concerns. General physician Dr Muhammad Shehzad said many patients continue to consume paye despite advice to limit oily and high-cholesterol foods.

Despite the health debate, Peshawari paye is increasingly attracting visitors beyond the city. Foreign tourists and food bloggers have begun seeking out traditional paye shops, with some recording their experiences and sharing them on social media.

For local sellers, the growing international interest has given a centuries-old culinary tradition a new audience, while for Peshawar residents, the dish remains firmly rooted in the city’s food culture, particularly during Ramazan.