Khuda Bakhsh Sarai: A Forgotten Relic of Multan’s Glorious Past
M Atif Ismail
Multan: Among the six historic Sarai (inns) that once flourished around the Multan City Railway Station, only Khuda Bakhsh Sarai remains operational today. Once a vital stop for travelers from across the country, this Sarai still provides shelter to a handful of weary visitors, though its grandeur has significantly diminished over time.
In its prime, the streets outside the railway station were alive with tea stalls, local eateries, tandoors, and the famed Sohan Halwa vendors.
Travelers, traders, and devotees sought refuge in these Sarai, adding to the city’s vibrant cultural and economic fabric. Among them, Khuda Bakhsh Sarai held a special place, particularly for pilgrims traveling from Sindh to visit Multan’s historic shrines.
The Golden Era of Multan’s Sarai Culture
Abdul Ghafoor, a 75-year-old resident who has witnessed the transformation of the Sarai over decades, reminisced about its golden days. “My father used to call out to passengers, inviting them to stay,” he recalled while speaking to APP.
Historically, there were six Sarai around the station—two belonging to Hindus and four to Muslims. The Muslim Sarai included Dilawar Shah, Khuda Bakhsh, Sharif Kashmiri, and Malkoon Wali Sarai. Each provided a haven for travelers, fostering an atmosphere of community and tradition.
A Testament to Architectural Grandeur
Amir Bashir, a historian and explorer specializing in the Waseeb region, highlighted the historical significance of the Sarai culture in the subcontinent.
He traced its origins to the era of Sher Shah Suri, when such inns played a crucial role in travel and trade. Over time, Sarai shifted to a more commercial model, but their cultural importance remained intact.
Upon visiting Khuda Bakhsh Sarai, Amir Bashir was struck by its majestic entrance, which still stands resilient despite the passage of time. Inside, an old mosque remains functional, offering a glimpse into the Sarai’s enduring legacy.
“The massive wooden doors, which once welcomed countless visitors, remain unchanged,” he noted. Beyond these doors, the main courtyard is surrounded by veranda-lined rooms, where travelers used to stay. The offices that once tracked arrivals and departures now stand as silent witnesses to history.
A Declining Tradition in the Face of Modernization
The architectural beauty of the Sarai, with its open and airy design, still reflects its former grandeur, though time has taken its toll. The decline of the Sarai culture is closely tied to the rise of modern guesthouses, which, while offering more amenities, remain unaffordable for lower-middle-class families.
Muhammad Asghar, the current manager of Khuda Bakhsh Sarai, shared that until 1990, about 250 people stayed there regularly.
Today, it accommodates only 20 residents, with a monthly charge of Rs 10,000. “Popular singers like Mehdi Hassan, Ghulam Ali, and Raishma once stayed here, but with the suspension of City Railway Station, our customer base has dwindled,” he lamented. Despite its decline, the Sarai still provides lodging to families.
Memories of a Lively Past
Muhammad Razaq, 65, once a seller of Falooda and Sohan Halwa outside the station, remembered the bustling commerce that thrived around the Sarai.
Vendors like Ghani Mal-Pooriwala and Chacha Rahimo catered to the needs of travelers, particularly the devotees from Sindh, whom the locals affectionately called “Pir Bhai.” These pilgrims brought life to the Sarai, making it an integral part of Multan’s history.
However, as the City Railway Station fell into disuse, so did everything around it. The descendants of Khuda Bakhsh still reside in the Sarai, but its vibrant days are long gone. “The Sarai culture is now a forgotten relic of the past,” Razaq lamented.
Preserving the Last Standing Sarai
Khuda Bakhsh Sarai remains one of the last reminders of Multan’s once-thriving hospitality culture. Its architectural elegance and historical significance warrant preservation efforts.
Whether through restoration projects or cultural heritage initiatives, reviving this landmark could reconnect modern travelers with the rich history of the region.
For now, the Sarai stands as a silent monument to a bygone era, its walls echoing the footsteps of countless travelers who once found refuge within its gates.
