Peshawar’s Qehwa: A Cultural Tradition in the Age of Social Media
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Peshawar: Despite the pervasive influence of social media, the centuries-old tradition of enjoying Qehwa (green tea) remains vibrant in Peshawar’s iconic Qissa Khwani Bazaar.
Known as the “Street of Storytellers,” this historic market continues to serve as a gathering place for locals who seek warmth and connection during winter nights, with Qehwa at its heart.
Amid the digital distractions of modern life, the comforting ritual of sipping Qehwa offers a welcome respite, providing a space for patrons to gather, share stories, and engage in conversations that have been passed down through generations in the oldest Qehwa shops.
The Qehwa Khanas of Qissa Khwani, which operate from morning till late night, draw large crowds on Sundays. Visitors engage in discussions about politics, culture, sports, and other socio-economic matters, all while savoring the warmth of the traditional beverage in the cold winter weather.
Peshawar’s famous Qehwa, known for its digestive benefits, provides foodies with relief after indulging in local delicacies such as Chappli Kabab and Mutton Karahi. Numerous Qehwa and food stalls remain open late into the night, offering a feast for the senses.
“I came from Karak to enjoy the mouthwatering Chappli Kabab with traditional Qehwa alongside my friends,” said Waris Khan, who traveled with six schoolmates from Karak district. “I’ve visited many cities in Pakistan, but Peshawari Chappli Kabab paired with Qehwa at Qissa Khwani is truly unforgettable.”
Qissa Khwani Bazaar, one of South Asia’s oldest markets, is famous for its diverse food offerings, including BBQ, Chappli Kabab, Paye, Mutton Karahi, Fried Fish, Kabuli Palau, and more. Visitors flock to this historic hub from morning until late into the night, savoring the delicious dishes and the aroma of freshly brewed Qehwa.
The traditional Qehwa shops, with their distinctive wooden beds, are an iconic feature of Qissa Khwani. These shops offer a unique gathering place for families and groups of friends, where they can enjoy delectable cuisines while soaking in the cultural ambiance.
“I brought my family to celebrate my son’s birthday at my favorite spot, Qissa Khwani, to enjoy its famous Chappli Kabab, Paye, and Qehwa,” said Fayaz Khan, a resident of Nowshera. “Whenever I visit Peshawar, I make sure to stop by Qissa Khwani to enjoy the delicious cuisine and its famous Qehwa.”
“Peshawari Qehwa provides warmth to the body and is a natural remedy for flu and digestive problems,” he added.
Qissa Khwani Bazaar, located in the heart of Peshawar near the historical Chowk Yadgar, Ghanta Ghar, and Balahisar Fort, is not just a culinary destination it is also a rich cultural center.
Once a key trade hub, it hosted merchants from the subcontinent, Afghanistan, and Central Asia, who shared tales of love, culture, art, and traditions before continuing their journeys.
The bazaar, which traces its origins back to the time of Alexander the Great and other historical figures, has seen the passage of empires and invaders, including Mehmood Ghaznavi, Zaheeruddin Babur, and Nadir Shah.
The vibrancy of this marketplace also echoes the triumphs of King Ahmed Shah Durrani, who marched through the Khyber Pass, and his grandson Shah Zaman.
Fazl Rehman, owner of the renowned Mohmand Qehwa shop at Shah Wali Qatal Street in Qissa Khwani, shared his passion for the craft of making Qehwa, a tradition he inherited from his father in 1969.
“Qehwa is more than just a drink; it’s a cultural experience,” said Rehman, whose son has also joined the family business. “The majority of my customers request Qehwa, especially the special variety known as Sheen Da Payo, which is perfect for parties.”
Rehman reminisced about the days when the tea stalls of Qissa Khwani were hotbeds of political discussion. “In the early days after Pakistan’s creation, people gathered in these tea shops to discuss political events, including elections, wars, and national issues,” he recalled.
Bakhtzada Khan, a research officer at the Archaeology Department, noted that Qissa Khwani’s rich history is intertwined with that of Peshawar itself.
“Recent archaeological excavations at Gor Khatri confirm that Peshawar is the ‘Oldest Living City’ in South Asia, with a history stretching back to around 539 BC,” he explained. “The tradition of storytelling and sipping Qehwa is a key part of Qissa Khwani’s cultural heritage, which continues despite the rise of social media.”
In addition to its Qehwa culture, Qissa Khwani also attracts foreign and domestic tourists eager to glimpse the ancestral homes of Bollywood superstars, including Yousaf Khan (Dilip Kumar), Raj Kapoor’s father Prithvi Raj, and Shah Rukh Khan’s family home.
One of the most significant landmarks in the area is the arched white marble monument erected to honor the martyrs of the Qissa Khwani massacre, where British troops massacred hundreds of people in 1930.
Fazal Rehman also recalled the period of terrorism from 2001-2013, which severely impacted the bazaar’s tourism. “Despite the setbacks caused by terrorism and the COVID-19 pandemic, Qissa Khwani’s traders have remained resilient, continuing to serve their customers even when many were afraid to visit.”
Shaukat Ali Khan, Chairman of the Central Organization for Traders in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, emphasized the importance of preserving Qissa Khwani’s cultural heritage. “Qissa Khwani is the identity of Peshawar. Efforts are needed to preserve its architecture, artwork, and unique atmosphere, which could generate substantial revenue through tourism.”
As part of his business, Khan revealed that around Rs 80,000 is spent per 50kg of green tea, much of which is imported from Vietnam.
Despite modern-day challenges, the ancient tradition of Qehwa in Qissa Khwani remains a testament to Peshawar’s enduring cultural legacy.
